Street Food III – Along Horta e Costa

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Avenida de Horta e Costa is one of the busiest roads in Macau. Direct from South to northern side tip to toe – it connects through the small tunnel Monte de Guia, all the way down to the heart of Local Residential sites. It always devote as is one of the busiest roads in Macau.

Pronounced as Kou-Si-Tak in chinese (previously named “O Kou”). “Costa” was one of the famous Macau Governor for long years. But then, the pronunciation “O Kou” was sound inauspicious. Now often called Horta Costa instead.

This is the main stream that definitely brings to all heritages, cuisines, street market, local life experiences all in one go. The Red Market best describes the historical meaning of this streets. Pui Ching College were established in 1889. The Enormous, colourful building heritages best describes its existence back a decade ago. It also claimed as one of the best college downtown.

In the next article in detail, the best restaurants and food searches within red market neighbourhood. Today here a quick walkthrough on street food and bests traditional places within.

The Red Market

Listed on the UNESCO World Convention Heritage Convention Building, this wet market still running on its day on day operations. From Ground floor selling dry groceries to first floor seafood sections, to top floor raw meat and poultry stores.

Surrounding outside the market place, its original food have preserved their real tastes half a century ago. Along the inner streets, all retail and food malls went well with right mixes, appealing its own culture in one place.

Beef Offal Hawkers – Chan Kei

Been repeating so many times by food bloggers – this hawkers place opened for almost 50 years, start their business back in the 70s. Get the best internal organ beef early morning. Undergo long food preparatory process. All food get ready by 2 pm and all sold out by 7 pm.

Its best item contribute to beef brisket congee and braised beef with noodles in top noch, selling from $17 patacas. Casual seats available next to food cart for a quick bite. Choosing best beef parts has always been a big challenge for the owner, Mr Chan.

Beef sourcing is always a big challenge. Mr Chan gather and pick all best part 4 am in the morning; before all other distribution started scattered to rests of Macau.

The best selling part: from beef tongue, heart, soft bones, lungs, to the most popular the beef 4th stomach (牛沙瓜) and winpipes (牛氣管). Try best dipping mix sauce practice! Add mustard, seafood and chilli paste in your own bowl, or more preferably, special home made chilli sauce as a base.

Trust me, they’re all hygienically clean as you expected, no worries at all.

Just right opposite the road, the best dessert place for just one bowl from$10 patacas. Recommend sesame, red bean and winter melon “Sweet Soup” always a big hit in its bests.

Feeling a bit boring eating oily n heavy stuff? Worthwhile given a try some fresh fruit peels. Giant Japanese grapes, chinese dragon eye, and mangos are always great choice. Next section my best recommendations: mixed nuts, special dates and lollies. They are all my favourite Chinese New Year picks.

The Three Lantern Lamps

Everyone would ask why the place called three lantern lamps but in the picture below it has four lamps lighting? Well it has few says. Some locals claimed the name was gifted as no one replaces the middle lamp (prior the China handover in 1999). Another say claimed the design itself formed in triangular shape. Hence , the leftover lamp was always hidden in particular angle.

Also named in Portuguese Rotunda de Carlos da Maia (嘉路米耶圓形地). The Lamp stand located in the middle of the roundabout stretches to five different intersections with each inner street providing numerous famous food stores.

The three lamps spot been treated as the portuguese residential parks (relaxing gardening place in 1900s). Due to the rapid growth of expatriates and Asian foreigners serving the communities, attract most expats settle their home even now.

Most buildings normally built in 5 storey high. It also catches its attention the place symbolising the three lamps. Cambodians, Indonesians, Philippinos are their top residence priorities. Some even setup their food business there. Thus we can find multi diversified food place worth given a try.

Next few articles will briefly describes each store’s own nationality kind. Today, we will digging out more on street food. Its just 5 minute walk from red market, opposite the road, into one of the main open market place.

Red Vinegar Pig Trotters – Fung Kei

Always never went bored with this dish. Fung Kei has been there for more than 20 years. Their best item is the pig’s skin and ears in skewers are always the best picks. Other good stall choices around too.

Neighbouring Stalls

Just next door, Tim kei, a good selection of special skewers of your choice placed on the silver plate for quick heat ups, prices. For best taste, ask for their tangy sauce pouring on top of your dish.

Next stall worthwhile taking a quick chinese dessert place, Wang Kei. Store opened in the 80’s, their best items sesame paste, papaya fungus sweet soup are their best selling items, worth trying after main meal.

Dragon’s beard candy

The handcrafted skill set exist more than 2000 years ago from China, Yao Kei has owned the store back in the 80’s, start with a food cart outside Red Market, in front of HSBC Bank. This was one of the stores for demonstration purposes – thus, this store open only 2-3 days in a week.

The making needs to be freshly made everyday; normally the sweet won’t leave overnight. The sugar coating appealing like silver hair tied in a bunch – having some dry peanut, sesame and glutinous rice stuffed inside.

This dessert originate 2000 years ago, from chinese imperials kitchens. Ingredients composes mainly Malt sugar and glutinous rice, rubbing gently, layered by layered, like the making of chinese noodles. The repeating flouring process ultimately achieving the sooth, hairy look. These nice hairy bunches were wrapped with sesame, peanut, edible in one small bite.

This could also be found in China and other Asian countries. In Macau this is the only store that still produces hand make dragon beard candy and definitely worth a try to buy one pack. Bear in mind these can’t stay in high temperature, definitely need to finish in one night!

Along the way try some of the seasonal fruit of the day. The most popular fruit Durian, watermelon, cherries are always locals best favorites during summer times. Worth trying them!

Rua da Emenda

One of the main five street, “Sa Kong District” back in the 18th century. No one would believe these prosperous streets were once the biggest cemetery village across. In early 1900s, Macau Government have pursue a huge urban development in these regions. Lo Kou, one of the “Casino tycoon” business men – have acquired to turn over the place into low-house housing district with shops and street constructions. Thus the Macau government have named one of the streets under his name to honor his big contribution.

Rua da Emenda is one of the busiest streets among all. They have lots of groceries stalls, fruits, vegetables and food stalls worthwhile to take a walk round.

In the next article will describe in detail all stores with bests food worth a try, stay tunned for details. You got to spend at least couple hours (and more) to feel and look at this lovely place engaging with all locals!

Angela Fung

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